I only just got to the tiny village in time. The garden drinks party was ending and the society members (about eighty of them) were walking across to the small church where the meeting was to be held. It was about eight o'clock in the evening, the sky remaining light until gone ten (that preternatural shadowless evening light you get around Midsummer Day).

Above: the church is dedicated to St Maurice, which immediately alerted me to the possibility of a crusader connection (the finding of the lance of St Maurice or St Morris in the ruined citadel of Antioch during the First Crusade had been a cathartic moment in the recapture of the Holy Land, leading to the cult St Maurice becoming popular among crusaders - this Antioch lance of St Maurice is not the same as the one kept in Vienna, which has a dubious provenance). The church had been recently restored, the restoration funded in part by the architectural society and the local council. Hence the invitation to the society to hold its summer lecture there.

Above: there were so many people milling about inside the building that I wasn't able to get a proper picture of the interior, but this is a photograph of a photograph that was on one of the information boards at the back. Note the unusual flight of steps up to the chancel, which indicates there is probably a chamber underneath it. Obviously I wondered what might be in that chamber.

Above: some nicely restored heraldic hatchments. Apparently they had been found in the bell tower in a rather dilapidated state. The pews at the back of the church had been removed to create space for display boards describing the history of the local area (there are important Roman remains nearby, a famous painter lived in the area in the eighteenth-century, the name of the village is mentioned in one of the most famous English folk songs etc).

Above: my heart sank when I read one of the boards and found that the pernicious revisionism was being repeated that reduces the Anglo-Saxons to mere "immigrants" who had introduced a "Nordic lifestyle". There is no hard evidence that this twisted version of history is true. All the evidence we have tells us that the Angles, Saxons and Jutes arrived as invaders, and obliterated the culture they found here (which was not the Romano-British culture of the colony of Britannia, as society seems to have regressed after the Roman legions left with the urban areas abandoned and revivals of paganism taking place). There was none of the cultural fusion that was experienced when the Franks invaded Gaul, recorded by Gregory of Tours. It is likely that the Saxon invaders of Britain physically destroyed the population they found here, as there is such an ominous silence in the years following the invasion, coupled with a complete change of language, culture and religion. Stenton, Loyn, Whitelock, Myres, Wallace-Hadrill, Michael Wood etc.
Probably the wording of the board had been decided by some diversity-awareness commissar in the local council. I was annoyed that money I had donated had gone towards this board. I would rather the church became a ruin than history should be politicised and tainted in this way.

Above: as I suspected, there was a crusader connection with the church.

Above: the lecture was given by Professor David Stocker. Very interesting talk on the way churches in the county have created a unique succession of landscapes ("each village wants to be seen... the tower would get higher and higher... the eighteenth-century aimed to reproduce Elysium..."). The lecture lasted an hour and I could easily have listened to another two or three hours, despite the fact that in the overwhelming heat of the evening I was beginning to shiver slightly and my hands and feet had become very cold.

Above: leaving the building I looked out across the valley where the crusader remains are suspected to be. I felt too ill to take a closer look. Long drive home, almost all the way in daylight.

























