It is St Patrick’s Day, and in the phony Irish pub O’Neills on the Euston Road the juke box will be belting out the usual songs:
Come On Eileen,
The Irish Rover,
The Sweetest Thing (they never play anyone like Sinead Quinn). For all it’s
Oirish fakery, it is a characterless pub, and one you would only go into for a quick drink immediately after work, before colleagues head off to Kings Cross, and St Pancras and the commuter trains home. I guess it will be packed tonight.
Whenever I think of Ireland and the Irish I think of Fiona (forgotten her second name) who I met in Jerusalem when we were both working on a British excavation at a crusader castle, during the last summer I was at university (we were both at London University – she was at the Institute of Archaeology in Mallet Street, whereas I was studying medieval history). She was a mature student in her late twenties (or possibly even older), with a heavy matronly build, pale skin covered in freckles, and masses of bright orange hair (which she just combed the way it grew, being very proud of what she called her “celtic fringe” across her forehead). Although temperatures regularly reached 100ºF that summer, Fiona’s skin remained white (unlike my own, which grew so dark I was routinely mistaken for an Arab).
We worked together on one of the trenches (helped by some teenagers from a local kibbutz) and she covered up for me when I accidentally vandalised a mosaic we were uncovering (I poured water over it to try and clean the dust away, and washed out a great many of the tesserae – Fiona helped me fit them back again, in approximate position). Since we only worked on the castle excavation in the mornings, we had the afternoons to explore the country, and Fiona joined a small group of us that went out on expeditions to the Wadi Kelt or the Mediterranean coast.
Fiona was very self-contained, and seemed to enjoy being on her own. She originally came from Mallow in southern Ireland, and talked about a sugar beet factory which was the main employer – local people go to work at this factory and effectively become trapped there, spending whole lives processing sugar beet, generation after generation. Fiona was the first in her family to move away from the area, and was determined never to go back there. She was a great reader and was enthusiastic about the work of Elizabeth Bowen (an Irish writer). She had read almost everything written by Joshua Prawer, not just his history of the crusader period, but also the work he had done on the modern settlement of Israel, and the creation of the Israeli national identity. Fiona had also studied Irish nationalism, and she was an (amateur and self-taught) expert on the Irish nationalist leader Michael Collins.
Michael Collins was born in southern Ireland in 1890 and as a teenager came to London and worked for several years as a post office clerk in Kensington. It was here that he developed his ideas of Irish nationalism, returning to southern Ireland to help lead a rebellion against the Westminster government during the First World War. The rebels were defeated, but subsequent uprisings and unrest in the country led to self-government for southern Ireland in 1922. A subsequent civil war among various Irish nationalist factions led to the murder of Michael Collins and the emergence of Eamon de Valera as Irish nationalist leader and eventually President of the Irish Republic.
Eamon de Valera was a half-Spanish American of Irish descent who dedicated his life to the Irish nationalist cause. Fiona believed that because he was only half-Irish he constantly felt he had to prove he was more Irish than the Irish. This expressed itself in a negative policy to anything British, and an atmosphere of underlying paranoia where the United Kingdom was portrayed as an alien country (despite centuries of shared history and interaction) that threatened to overwhelm the new Irish Republic. His most infamous act was the sending of a telegram to Berlin in April 1945, regretting the death of the German Chancellor (I suppose he was thinking:
my enemy’s enemy is my friend).
Had Michael Collins not been murdered he would almost certainly have led the Dublin government, and without Eamon de Valera’s insecurities, relations with the United Kingdom would have been normalised at a much earlier stage (he would have become a sort of Irish Jomo Kenyatta). As it was, British-Irish friendship only really emerged within the framework of the European Community (which later became the European Union).
Towards the end of the excavation at the crusader castle a group of us went on a trip to a kibbutz in the north of the country, travelling there in an Arab taxi. Fiona had a friend at this kibbutz, and so she disappeared soon after we arrived. Much later, in the early evening when an Arab taxi had arrived to take us back to the British School, we went to look for her and found her sitting alone, fast asleep. It was obvious she had been drinking heavily, and nothing we could do would wake her up (she was insensible). Eventually the others said they were going back in the taxi, and I had to leave with them or else be stranded on the kibbutz. I have always felt guilty about leaving Fiona there on her own.
She reappeared at the British School a couple of days later, and shortly afterwards I returned to the United Kingdom, so we never really re-established our friendship. Months later at home, out of the blue through the post arrived a jiffy bag containing several books Fiona recommended, including an old paperback about Michael Collins.