As I got up this morning, at 5am, I noticed that the gardenias on the landing had come into flower. The silence of the house at such an early hour was slightly unsettling. I made myself a cup of tea, which I drank in the solitude of the dining room, and then left the house.
Arriving in London early, I went to the National Gallery and looked at renaissance artists of the Venetian school. Titian is admired for his ability to capture character through an accumulation of details, each of which has a symbolic meaning. He is important because he is so comprehensive - painting princes, popes and saints over a period of sixty years.
I had arranged to meet John Bors Edwards on the north side of Trafalgar Square, so when eleven o’clock arrived I simply went outside and there he was on the pavement. Sometimes when you meet people after years of not seeing them you find they have changed utterly, so that you do not at first recognise them. Often they have become bloated caricatures of their former selves. John Edwards, whom I last saw nine years ago, was completely unchanged. Not only his appearance, but his character was unchanged, so that there was none of the one-upmanship you sometimes encounter in old college friends. We shook hands and more or less took up the same conversation we left off back in 1997.
We decided to walk to the restaurant where we were to have lunch. The streets were surprisingly free of traffic. Along Piccadilly, then up Bond Street and across. As we walked through Berkeley Square and along Charles Street I experienced a very profound sense of déjà vu, brought about by the combination of walking through Mayfair and talking to John Edwards. It seemed as if we were in the 1980s once again (say 1989) and still at college, and on our way to Dartmouth House. Past the Running Footman pub, past Dartmouth House, turning right at the Chesterfield Hotel and then right again into Curzon Street.
The entrance to the Mirabelle restaurant was through a very understated lobby area. Once inside, the sense of the 1980s, which had accompanied me since the corner of Bond Street, became overwhelming in its intensity, so that I felt a little giddy (or was it an attack of Stendhal’s Syndrome after visiting the National Gallery, or was it just hunger because I hadn’t had any breakfast?). We left our packages at the front desk and followed a heavily-accented young woman as she led us to the art deco bar area.
Mirrored walls, lots of white marble, big displays of lilies. John Edwards was concerned that he wasn’t wearing a tie. I told him no-one bothered with ties these days (but actually he was the only one in the Mirabelle not wearing one. We ordered drinks and I was brought a (very strong) Scotch and soda.
There was a bowl of olives on the low table in front of us, and John Edwards consumed all of these so that a second bowl had to be brought.
“Don’t put this into your diary” he warned, “I know the sort of details you pick up on.”
We were ushered from the bar into the dining area. More white marble and displays of flowers. No windows, the light coming down from a glass ceiling.
“How did you know about this place?” John asked me.
In reply I made a (half-true) joke about working my way through the Michelin Guide. But also my choice of restaurant had been influenced by my brother’s interest (actually more an obsession) with the secret services, the buildings on both sides of Curzon Street being formerly associated with MI5 and MI6. Up until about ten years ago the Mirabelle restaurant had been a sort of unofficial staff canteen for British agents. Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond, is supposed to have observed the real “James Bond” regularly having lunch there (the real James Bond’s name was Sidney Reilly although his
real real name was Shlomo Rosenblum, born in the Ukraine in 1873 - after the Russian revolution he became a British agent and won the Military Cross for his work against the Soviets. He “disappeared” while on a mission into Soviet Russia in 1925).
Even though the security services moved out in the mid-1990s, a sense of mystery still pervades Curzon Street. The building opposite the Mirabelle had been the MI5 Registry, and was the first building in London to have security cameras installed (heavy cumbersome cameras - they were hidden in a special canopy). The buildings (disguised as blocks of 1930s offices) had no windows on the ground floors, and inside the walls and ceilings were covered in aluminium sheeting forming Faraday Boxes designed to prevent computer data being read from outside the room. The complex had its own self-defence force, and below ground was an impregnable fortress known as the Citadel where the Royal Family were supposed to have sheltered during the blitz of the Second World War (there were discreet machine gun portals pointing towards Hyde Park where the German paratroopers were expected to drop - even in the 1950s these guns were manned day and night).
MI5 is supposed to deal with internal threats to the United Kingdom while MI6 counters external dangers. These two departments grew out of a series of specialist security operations such as MI6 dealing with codes and ciphers, MI4 aerial reconnaissance, MI10 weapons analysis etc. Conspiracy theorists are convinced there is a “MI17” which counters incursions by extra-terrestrials.
Omelette Arnold Bennet, lamb with clams, strawberries in a sort of champagne custard. Only mineral water to drink. The food was well presented and the staff very efficient - as good as any in Paris.
We talked about various people we knew. I updated him on the downfall (a veritable Gotterdammerung) of Alan Nixon. He described his army career and how soon he expected to be a major.
After the meal we got a taxi to the Victoria and Albert Museum where we went to the central courtyard, a red-brick quadrangle, where there is an open-air café. We ordered drinks and sat there in the mild air, a light breeze blowing. It was nice to just sit there doing nothing, talking about the past.