I share my birthday with Madonna. We were both born on the sixteenth of August. Over the years I have come to think of Madonna as a sort of secular guardian angel, her songs marking the high point of summer. It was the same this year. As Sunday became Monday, there was the culmination of “Madonna Weekend” on the Magic music channel, with Madonna cavorting in an endless series of vivid music videos – posing against Venetian backdrops, rolling around in shallow waves, standing in a high wind. Madonna in jeans, Madonna in a pink ballgown, Madonna in nothing very much at all. Madonna songs as social commentary, Madonna songs as fervent religious expression, Madonna songs as dense, multi-layered works of art. Madonna now lives in Wiltshire, in a house that once belonged to the photographer Cecil Beaton.
A huge birthday cake. An old recipe. Made with ten eggs, crushed brown sugar on the top, soggy in the middle (it wasn’t meant to be soggy, but I don’t think it was cooked long enough). I had one slice.
I drove across to Ashwell to meet Gary Spencer at his house. We then drove in his Jaguar up to London to meet Alan Nixon. Our objective was the Atlantic Bar & Grill in Glasshouse Street. This had not been our first choice of restaurant, but as we had left the booking so very late all the familiar places were full. We had been on the point of giving up, but Gary Spencer announced he had just got an AmEx Black Card: “I can get you into any restaurant in London” he told me. We left the choice of restaurant to the Black Card, and the Black Card people got us a table at the Atlantic Bar & Grill.
All the way up to London Gary Spencer played a Dido CD, enthusing about the singer.
Arriving at the restaurant, there was a rope cordoning the entrance off from the street, and a small crowd of people waiting expectantly. We pushed through these people and were stopped by the door staff who carefully checked that our names were on a list they were holding. The Atlantic Bar & Grill has a ruthless door policy that makes the place difficult to get into unless you “look right” (so how did we get in? - presumably the AmEx Black Card made us beautiful in the eyes of the establishment).
We descended a very elegant curving staircase, to a cavernous lobby area dominated by a huge chandelier. Many people were milling about in this area. As we reached the midway point on the staircase I became conscious that the people below were looking up at us, presumably to check whether we were glamorous celebrities (then looking quickly away when they realised we were not). The Atlantic Bar & Grill is a haven for the famous, the “in crowd”, and the “hanging on crowd” – plus nonentities such as ourselves who enter the place by accident.
The interiors were remarkable, displaying an opulence that verged on the decadent. I was reminded of the Alma-Tadema painting The Baths of Caracalla, but actually the style was early Art Deco Egyptian Revival. The great rooms were almost entirely lined in coloured marble, the half-columns around the walls finished by palm-tree capitols. Usually I like the art deco style, but this version was overpowering in a heavy, expensive and almost sinister way. Overlaying all this marble the designer David Connor (a friend of Janet Street-Porter and Vivienne Westwood) has installed post-modern furnishings, including enormous mirrors and 1930s revival lighting. We passed a room called Dick’s Bar (more “door staff” protecting this inner sanctum – looking through the entrance one could see a dusky-pink interior, with sofas in red leather – “Baby Spice” Emma Bunton recently held a birthday party there).
Then into a vast area that was the Atlantic Bar itself. There must have been several hundred people in this spacious area, drinking, talking, or standing seven or eight deep at the bar. The appearance of the people seemed to be vaguely unsettling until I realised that all of them were young and attractive, as if we had wandered onto a film set populated entirely by models. On the walls were examples of modern art (pieces by Douglas Gordon, Tatsuo Miyajima and Mariko Mori - the “installation” artist Mat Collishaw once put up a large reproduction of Velazquez’s Rokeby Venus punctuated by bullet holes). The music was deafeningly loud, and some of the people were making attempts at dancing.
The Atlantic Bar had originally been the ballroom of the old Regent Palace Hotel – this former ballroom, of huge dimensions, has been split in two, one half forming the “bar”, the other half (protected by yet another checkpoint of “style police”) being the restaurant. The two halves were divided by the long bar counter. I followed Gary Spencer into the restaurant, where we met Alan Nixon and sat down at our table. From where we were seated we had a good view, and Gary Spencer pointed out David Blaine (a “performance artist”, celebrated for being suspended in a glass box above the Thames for about a month).
The music was so loud that ordinary conversation was impossible. The food was disappointing (a sort of fusion of popular American and European dishes – snails ravioli an example of the quirky menu). The service was very slow and our five courses took a total of three hours to arrive. However, it was clear that one doesn’t go to the Atlantic Bar & Grill to eat or to talk, one goes there to be seen.
I started with smoked salmon, then had monkfish for a main course. Bollinger to drink, which was a nice touch paid for by Gary Spencer. When we were able to talk we discussed Alan’s difficult situation and the options that might be available to him. I strenuously opposed any suggestion of bankruptcy, feeling that this would be an irrevocable step. Gary Spencer suggested he should go to eastern Europe for a number of years (Anastasia is Romanian) until all the fuss has subsided. Gary Spencer also launched into a belligerent analysis of the world economy, attacking American levels of debt and saying that the American economy was close to collapse. “I’ve put all my investments into gold” he said smugly. American national debt will erode the attractiveness of the American dollar as a world currency. This in turn will erode American military power (there is an almost exact correlation, which I didn’t understand, between the profit made from the strength of the dollar, and the American military budget – which means that American military power is basically funded by foreign nations who hold dollars as a currency reserve).
At about 11.30 pm we left the restaurant. Gary Spencer drove me back to Ashwell where I got into my own car and continued across to Buckinghamshire. By this time it was very late – about 2 am. The road from Ashwell is very long, rather narrow, hemmed in by woods, and frequently undulates up and down in a series of deep dips and hollows. Because the road is relatively straight, and there are few turnings off, I was inclined to drive a little faster than usual, especially as there seemed to be no other traffic so late at night.
About half-way along the road I saw flashing lights, with a van and a big lorry stopped in the road. I slowly began to pass the lorry, and someone came out of the darkness to stand in front of my car, motioning to me to stop. We were at the crest of one of the little valleys, and I could look down into the dip to see, by the light of our combined headlights, a terrible accident. A saloon car was sprawled across the road, with debris scattered around it. It had been consumed by fire, so that there was no glass in the windows, and even the colour of the vehicle was unrecognisable, so ferocious had been the fire. The accident had clearly only just happened, as smoke was still rising from the wreckage.
The man who stopped me opened the passenger door of my car and almost collapsed onto the seat. He seemed very shaken, and was talking into a mobile ‘phone to the emergency services, at one point turning to me to ask where we were. From his appearance I guessed that he was the lorry driver. Perhaps he had just witnessed the accident – or perhaps he had even caused it. “I can’t see any sign of the driver” he said into the 'phone, and then got out of the car and with a dazed sort of stagger went a little closer to the scene of devastation.
I leaned across and closed the passenger door, and reversed my car back past the lorry and past the van and stopped with the engine still running. I am not normally a nervous person, but the loneliness of the night, the dark overhanging trees of the wood, and the dreadful crash only a few yards away made me feel very troubled. I felt that Death was very close (the image of Death in the painting by Thomas Cooper Gotch – a beautiful smiling woman, waving a greeting to those she has come to claim).
I considered the situation – there were at least two other people at the scene, and the emergency services were on their way. I had not witnessed the accident. There seemed to be nothing useful that I could do. Therefore I turned my car around and drove back along the road I had just come down. After a little way the peace of the night reasserted itself – rabbits scampered on the grass verges, the trees hemmed in close and secretive, the stars shone down with their ancient immutable light.
Shortly afterwards I saw an ambulance coming towards me, lights flashing, eerily silent on the empty road. Slowly and carefully I drove home.