Leaving my car at the service centre (this was my second visit due to the unavailability of spare parts), I was loaned a courtesy car and told to come back at three o’clock. I drove north from the county town, eventually arriving at a small market town about twelve miles to the northeast. It was a very hot day, and the streets were dusty and almost deserted (the architecture of the town was unremarkable apart from a massive Wesleyan Chapel which filled the end of a road of terrace houses).
Above: a massive Wesleyan Chapel filled the end of a street of terrace houses.
From the little town I drove along an undulating side road that took me out into the countryside and through some dense plantation woods (conifers - it was like driving through Thetford Forest). As I drove down into a valley I saw, rising on the opposite side, Canon Pettifor’s “holy hill”. This was a conical prominence, the shape making it look far loftier than it actually was. The summit was topped by a big honey-coloured church glowing in the afternoon sun.
As I reached the valley level I lost sight of the hill but continued to drive in its general direction. I arrived at the “centre” of a village. The valley at this point was very narrow, the sides covered with trees. The road forked and two parallel lanes proceeded northwards along the valley for about a mile, with a low ridge in between. The two parallel lanes comprised the village, with large villas lining one route, and cottages along the other. On the gentle ridge in the centre, clear of all trees, was the “new” church.
Above: the “new” church was built in 1913 when attendance at the “old” church (on top of the hill) had dwindled. I parked my car beside a grassy bank. Opposite the bank was a line of cottages looking like a painting by Helen Allingham (the Helen Allingham effect was heightened by a number of grey-haired elderly women, wearing floral dresses and old-fashioned aprons who were standing in their gardens chatting to each other). Pevsner raves about this church (obviously being Pevsner his raving is of the understated variety, but you can tell under his prissy Germanic prose he was getting seriously worked up). Note the paired oblong bell openings (he writes). Note the plain mullioned windows of Elizabethan and Jacobean type (he writes). Inside the church Pevsner becomes ecstatic (you can tell), indulging in a chilly sort of academic gushing over the architectural subtleties and references. The interior is a sort of super-intellectual game whereby you have to trace the influence of other buildings on every facet of this one (a game that possibly only Pevsner was qualified to play). This was not a pastiche of a medieval building, this was a genuine medieval building that happened to be put up at the start of the twentieth century.
Above: walking to the end of the lane, off to one side led this path, with a wooden sign that said “the old church”. The first section went up through some trees, the ground soggy and wet underfoot despite the hot day (a stream obviously followed the route of the path). The ground began to rise steeply.
Above: I am very disappointed with this photograph as it gives you no idea of how steeply the ground was rising (the gradient so acute you had to be careful not to lose your footing). The path went up in a zigzag way, following the contours of the hill. After about twenty minutes I began to feel out of breath.
Above: most of the way up the path was enclosed by hedges, but at various points you could look out at fields filled with sheep and exhilarating views of the countryside (you could easily be distracted by the view and slip and roll down into those nettles!).

Above: occasionally stiles led the way to intriguing side paths, except that I was already far too weary to go off exploring.
Above: I passed sheltered dells where the thistledown piled up, undisturbed by the wind.
Above: I passed blackberries already ripe, presaging the coming of autumn.
Above: eventually the summit came into view. By this time I was feeling the effects of the climb (it was more a climb than a walk). The heat made me feel giddy, I was almost gasping for breath, my heart was pounding.
Pevsner seems uninterested in the church, noting that it was built of local sandstone (quarried from the hill itself), in a style mostly Early English and Transitional. Arthur Mee (unreliable romantic that he is) says it was abandoned in the 1880s because the villagers refused to walk up the hill. Declared redundant in 1931.
The atmosphere was very still in the afternoon sun, not a trace of a breeze even though the hill had a roof-of-the-world feel to it. The stones of the church seemed very eroded, as if it was slowly dissolving in the wind and rain that must surely blast the hill in winter. Despite its redundant status it did not appear neglected, just insubstantial, as if might suddenly crumble to dust.
Above: opening the door and stepping inside, the atmosphere was intense, as if the ether had a weightier density than the air outside. Although redundant, the church looked neat and tidy, as if still cared for (no sign of any vandalism). Much of the woodwork, including the chancel screen, had been painted white in the 1930s (as if Elsie de Woolfe had been one of the churchwardens). A photocopied sheet informed me that the seating had originally been box pews (you can see some of them have survived if you click on the photo to enlarge it and look to the left). When the church was abandoned in the 1880s a local farmer had taken most of the box pews and used the wood to panel the rooms in his farmhouse. Look closely at the pillar in the centre of the photo - around the top was carved a row of tiny primitive heads.
It was nearly six by the time I got back to the service centre. The counter clerk looked reproachful as he handed me the keys to my car (possibly my lateness had delayed his going home). The bill was huge.
More on Helen Allingham: http://www.helenallingham.com/
















