The area however is of considerable interest, and has been a centre of martial culture since the Iron Age fort (a square enclosure with three ditches and banks) was constructed three thousand years ago.

Above: the church, which has a Saxon dedication, is on top of a south facing hill. The day was cold and bleak but the aspect must attract the sun as a few daffs had struggled into flower. I had to wait for the building to be unlocked.

Above: inside it was smaller than it looked from the exterior. Covers and sheets were over all the furnishings because of bats that live in the building. The archaeology of the building is hard to interpret - arches filled in, windows reformed, walls punctuated with new openings.

Above: my main interest in visiting the church was to see the small chapel in the north-east corner. It is the mausoleum of a knightly family (now expired locally) of considerable warlike ferocity. The family papers are in the Bodleian Library. I had read about the family's exploits, and had been mildly interested in seeing the tombs, but actually visiting this chamber made their chivalric legacy almost tangible. For two centuries knights had been created in this chamber (notice the niches in the corners - I wonder what saints they contained). It was a process that had several unique features.
The knights were created by the local lord (the family was not important enough to attract the attention of the king). The candidate, typically late teens or early twenties, would undergo a ritual bath attended by two squires, who were themselves training for knighthood. Dressed in white, he would then spend ten hours in prayer kneeling in this chapel (not sure if he was alone or not during this period). In the morning the investiture ceremony would be held. This was in the form of a religious mass during which the knight would make vows, and be dubbed by the lord (the local magnate). A sword, shield and spurs would be given to him (or affixed to him, the manuscript is not clear). There was then a fanfare, and a procession back to the Hall. A feast was held attended local landowners and most of the village. Later there was a tournament, which was probably held in the Iron Age fort (I am surmising this, but the banks of earth make it a good theatrical space).

Above: unexpectedly (they are not mentioned in any guidebooks) medieval spurs are displayed on the north wall. Formerly many more were on show, but have been stolen over the years. Notice the badge of the White Hart, an emblem of Richard II (Tottenham Hostspur Football Club, known as The Spurs, plays at White Hart Lane).
Above: heraldic stained glass showing spears.
Above: more stained glass extended the knightly theme of the building.

Above: chief treasure of the church is this late medieval silver chalice. No longer kept in the village, its image was displayed prominently like a holy icon. The vessel had been presented to the church in the eighteenth century by a lady of the manor, but there are grounds for thinking it had been in the possession of the family for an extensive time previously, and could well have been used during the religious part of the knight-making ceremony (but I am bound to say there is no actual evidence to support this).

Above: and there were intriguing indications that the martial spirit of the place lived on into modern times. This picture for instance, dating from the First World War, kept on a ledge in the knights' chapel. Did the continuity of the local history still exert an influence, or is this fanciful supposition?

Above: the war memorial was well maintained, and given the nature of intermarriage over the centuries the list of family names almost certainly includes descendants from the original knights.









































