Note the actual date of this post is Monday 29th January 2007At 9 o’clock I went downstairs with the dog. Out in the garden the day was mild, the white Christmas Roses in full flower. Robert Leiper was already up and having breakfast in the dining room (tea with toast and marmalade - Frank Cooper’s Oxford Marmalade).
I was concerned to know how well Robert was getting on with everyone as he has a controlling persona. If you are not firm with him you can end up being pushed around in your own house. For instance when showing him the main Sitting Room, which has seven armchairs and two sofas, I told him one of the armchairs was only used by my aunt. Not surprisingly, when I next went in there he was sitting in my aunt’s armchair. I knew this was a test of will so I told him to move. I would have ejected him had it been necessary.
He also seems to be a bit of an exhibitionist, and I got reports that he was undressed this morning with the lights on and the curtains open. This information was provided by one of the farmers who use the sheds in the old farmyard – he told me seriously “the old biddies won’t like it”, referring to the locals who use the lane as a shortcut up to the church. I had to explain to Robert that although the house was isolated, lots of people use the lane and the footpath through the old farmyard, and they can see through into his room, especially if he leaves the light on (these are not people who would understand the Californian concept of letting it all hang out).
Other feedback I got concerned Robert’s loud exuberance (“does he have to be so hip and happening?”) and the amount of mud he was bringing into the house (“doesn’t he know how to use a doormat?”). Old advice about not mixing friends and family came back to me. I decided to get him out of the house as much as possible to minimise the culture clash.
We had a big lunch – as it was a Sunday we had roast pork, sage and onion stuffing, roast potatos, carrots, cauliflower. For pudding we had mince pies. After lunch and a cup of tea Robert Leiper wanted to explore the local area.
Just below the escarpment is a small market town that is halfway between the hills and the coast (because of an estuary it also has a small port). With a population of about fifteen thousand inhabitants, it has a mostly Georgian and Victorian appearance, the streets packed closely round a great church in the centre (the size of a small cathedral, with a lofty tower). Seen from a distance, and from the vantage point of the escarpment, it resembles one of those gothic cities in a medieval Book of Hours.
We drove into the centre of the town and parked in the cobbled Market Place. As it was late afternoon on Christmas Eve nowhere was open, but I was able to show him the exterior of various buildings. So we looked at the Assembly Rooms, the Old Custom House, the blue-plaqued birthplace of an inflammatory sixteenth-century rabble rouser (author of a Martyrology), the Guildhall, and the great church itself (soaring perpendicular, intricate gothic, dazzling complexity of flying buttresses and lofty pinnacles).
Returning home we joined the others, had some tea and talked for several hours. Robert Leiper seemed mesmerised by the town we had just visited and the size and scale of the church/minster/mini-cathedral that dominated the centre. He wanted to see inside, and looking in the local newspaper I found that there was a Christmas Eve Carol Concert at seven o’clock.
At 7pm we drove down onto the plain to the small town again (Robert Leiper had put on a dark Dolce & Gabbana blazer – “Cost me eight hundred and fifty bucks” – with a t-shirt that said Starboard Attitude). The church was lit up, from both within and without, vast in size, the gothic tower looming upwards 272 feet into the dark sky. In through the porch, we entered the enormous gothic interior and found seats on the left hand side of the nave, fairly near the front (the nave was nearly full). As we came in and were given the Order of Service we were also presented with one lit candle, but Robert Leiper went back and insisted that we had TWO candles (he is very competitive). I pointed out the fine transitional windows. “Gothic upon gothic my abbey rises round me” said Robert Leiper appreciatively, quoting a minor poet (and typically getting the quotation wrong).
The service was comprised of Lessons and Carols, the format very familiar to me (all the usual carols were sung including
Once In Royal David’s City,
Hark The Herald Angels Sing,
Joy To The World etc). The Lessons were read by various members of the ecclesiastical hierarchy (which is extensive at the church/minster/mini-cathedral) in an escalating order of importance. The service ended with the choir and clergy, led by the cross holder, processing to the back of the church to bless the crib.
In many ways it was a very ordinary Christmas Eve service. Possibly even a little clichéd. But Robert Leiper was delighted with the event, calling it “classically English”.
After the service, when everyone was milling around at the west end, Robert Leiper’s loud American accent attracted the attention of one of the wardens of the church and he was given a brief impromptu tour. As Robert looks young for his age I thought it worth pointing out that he was a Doctor of English with an interest in medieval manuscripts. This immediately led to an invitation for him to return later in the week to see the church/minster/mini-cathedral’s Library (not normally open to visitors).
Robert Leiper and I returned home and had some more tea. Once again we talked for several hours. Because our lunch had been very substantial neither of us was hungry.
Midnight MassAt 11.30 in the evening we went out once more, this time all of us going to a local village church. Bells pealed into the night sky as we entered the building. Robert Leiper was very excited (like a child) when we entered the church and saw the bell-ringers working away under the tower (apparently it was the first time he had seen bell-ringing). The church was almost full. We sat on the right hand side of the nave, halfway down. There was a fuss when the lord of the manor (who is also the local MP), wearing red cord trousers, arrived with his party, ostentatiously taking their places in the front pew.

The church is filled with many treasures, chief among these being a great brass chandelier, with about a fifty candles in several tiers, dating from 1722 and hanging over the central aisle. The sight of this chandelier lit up for Christmas was very beautiful. The service was a Midnight Mass, being Holy Communion for Christmas Day. We sang traditional carols:
O Come All Ye Faithful,
Away In A Manger,
God Rest Ye Merry Gentleman etc. We went up with everyone else to take the Eucharist bread and wine (Robert Leiper crossing himself). When the offertory hymn was sung a collecting plate was passed around and Robert Leiper placed in this a £20 note (a sight almost as ostentatious as the lord of the manor’s red trousers).
The service ended and we emerged from the church at the same time as the party from the manor. Most of them got into cars, but the MP said loudly that he wanted to walk across the park and climbed over an iron gate to go back on foot to his Queen Anne hall (one of the nicest houses in the area). The night was cold.
We returned home and had (another cliché I’m afraid) hot mince pies and glasses of sherry.