On an elevated position over-looking open countryside, the tiny building was in a classical style, built mostly in red brick with a magnesium limestone façade that included Tuscan columns. The roof was lead, with a small wooden cupola at the west end. Standing on the front steps I had a wonderful view of the rounded slope of the hill (Aberdeen Angus cattle lazing in the sun) and the way the gradient fell gently down to the plain.
The interior was staggeringly beautiful, and the completeness of the design had rationality, integrity, and modesty among the baroque flourishes. The font was a simple marble bowl. An egg and dart frieze ran along the top of the Reader’s desk. I loved the way the pulpit was only two steps up from the floor, which implied humility. The walls were painted cream, with an exquisite white and gold east end apse (matched by two white and gold chandeliers in the main body of the church). Right at the back, in the north corner, was a manorial family pew (the last of the line died in 2004) - this was a wooden kiosk screened by blue curtains which gave it a theatrical air (when the family was seated and the curtains opened it must have resembled a Punch and Judy booth).
The church was so beautiful I wanted to come back for a service (when the church would come to life).
So this morning I got up early and drove for an hour back to the village.
Turning off the Roman road I drove along the bosky straight lane, which looked slightly different from my May visit - now wild columbines were in the hedgerows, poppies were scattered along the verge, green corn stood in the fields.
I parked my car in the lane and walked along the wide gravel path to the church. Mild sunshine. Pine cones underfoot, blown down from a line of specimen trees.
The congregation was tiny, but very friendly and intimate. The (female) Reader arrived and greeted me (Readers are lay ministers who are theologically trained and licensed by the Church of England to take services). A single bell was rung, making a measured ding-ding-ding sound.
I was given a service sheet and a copy of the BBC Songs of Praise hymn book. I sat near the back of the small building, and experienced a sense of presentiment as I looked towards the altar. Most of the congregation stood talking at the west door until 9.30 when they came in and took their seats.
The service was Morning Prayer. It was a fine day, so the west door was left open, allowing birdsong to punctuate the quiet moments. At the back the organ began and we sang O For A Thousand Tongues To Sing (we all struggled with the Wesleyan scales).
Two readings, and then Psalm 65 which included the lines: Happy are they whom you choose and draw to your courts to dwell there. They will be satisfied by the beauty of your house, by the holiness of your temple.
In her sermon the Reader talked about the polite English restraint of “not talking about religion” and how we should possibly talk about religion a bit more. She emphasised the importance of reading the Bible, and the hope of starting a Bible study group in the parish. She confided her feeling that a great spiritual harvest was waiting to be gathered in.
We said the Intercessory Prayers (for those who were ill, for those who found themselves caught up in violence, for the overseas bishops staying in the diocese prior to the Lambeth Conference). We sang the hymn Dear Lord and Father of Mankind. I began to feel cold (but it seemed a cleansing sort of cold, although this could have been my metaphysical imagination).
After the service I stood at the west end chatting for a few minutes and then went out into the warm sunshine. The hazy light made the landscape look pastel grey-green in colour. The cows looked at me impassively.
The service at this little church helped to define in my mind an idea that has been forming for some time - in terms of aesthetic experience (16th century literature, sacred music, ancient buildings, incomparable locations, humility of the clergy, subtle “energetics” of the services) the Church of England is arguably the world’s most beautiful religion.
I returned to my car an elderly lady walking alongside said she was sorry there hadn’t been more people there. This issue of attendance has been much in the news recently. In my opinion the worried questionings in the Sunday Telegraph (and sneering in the Times) about whether the numbers are viable misses the point. The Anglican religion is not about numbers. From a theological point of view Christ is present whenever two or three are gathered in His name. And in the Book of Genesis God promised Abraham that if only ten “righteous” people could be found, the whole community would be saved.
Some pictures:

Above: the building was constructed of red brick and magnesium limestone.
Above: View from the front steps - I took this picture back in May and you can see the hawthorn blossom in the hedges.
Above: the door was left open during the service.

Above: there was a sense of presentiment as I waited for the service to begin.
Above: the hymn book was BBC Songs of Praise.
Above: the Reader’s Desk had an egg and dart decoration.
Above: two modest steps led up into the pulpit (note the marble font).
Above: family pew at the back, like a little puppet theatre.
Above: chaste memorials were on the walls (also two hatchments).




































